Beirut
Hanging Out
Cafes, bars, cool locations to wander about in

Not for nothing is Beirut known as the Paris of the East. People love to see, be seen, look good, hang out in cafes, bars, beaches and restaurants, and there are so many beautiful locations to do just that, and capture the multi-faceted canvas that makes up the city.

Beirut’s café scene is not just popular, it’s more a way of life. You can spend an entire leisurely afternoon people watching, reading, or just observing the world go by. Just choose your location – or better still, sample them all!

In Verdun

Breakfast might be café au lait and hazelnut flutes in Pain Quotidien. Window shop at Aichti down the road, drop in at the Emporio Armani outlet. For a breather from shopping, opt for a mozzarella and avocado salad in a late lunch at Mandarine, round the corner from the Four Points Sheraton (and the adjacent, all-important ATM.)

Join the Insiders who walk, jog, roller-blade or bike along the long, wide Corniche, which runs along the Mediterranean shore. At the southwestern end (Raouché), stop for a look at Beirut's impressive Pigeon Rocks, which rise majestically from the waters just off the coastline.

In Al Hamra

Around Al Hamra, once the glitziest street in Beirut, was one of the main casualties of the 15 year Lebanese civil war. Long gone are its glamorous cafes, shops and cinemas, ceded to districts like Sodeco on the East and Verdun on the west. Nevertheless Hamra is currently seeing the beginnings of a revival with trendy café-bars like De Prague and Graffiti which provide chilled internet locations by breakfast time and translate into packed fun filled bars by night. With excellent (loud) DJ music by night and interesting menus throughout the day, both cater to intellectual component of West Beirut’s cosmopolitan student population from the nearby American University of Beirut, and Lebanese American University, as well as young professionals.

In Saifi & Solidere

As the day wears on, move on to the Saifi district, for pain au chocolat at Chez Paul, where the coolest hang for hours, talking (a national pastime) and reading the papers (also). A glimpse of Lebanese Paris. Wander around the Saifi, just looking and absorbing….or indeed buying from the numerous trendy (and expensive) designer boutiques.

In the ill-fated historic downtown area (which was totally destroyed in the civil war and is now known as the Solidere District (Beirut Central District) take a leisurely stroll to absorb the ornate, beautifully restored buildings with their arabesque yellow and pastel stonework, graceful arches, and wrought iron scrollwork. Along the way, discover the ancient ruins of Roman baths, markets, and buildings that have recently been uncovered and left exposed.

Downton Beirut
Photo by John Smith

The rebuilt Solidere district in some ways epitomizes vibrant, sensory Beirut – valiant in the face of near-continuous geopolitical tensions - how unlike the Las Vegas which is Dubai! But in the meantime, as was ever thus in Beirut (the city which partied on throughout the civil war, with clubs simply remaining open till after the night curfew was over, and people could go home)….party on like a local.
 

"Beirut 1960"
Photo by John Smith

During your wanderings, visit the huge, rather lovely Blue Mosque, where Hariri’s funeral took place. And the tiny 14th century mosque almost adjacent to it, stunningly simple in its domed stone façade.

Try out falafel sandwiches bought in the street from “hole in the wall” outlets catering to the glittering office blocks that epitomize the restoration, on the hoof while exploring…and check out the black Cadillac with the tinted windows that follow its owners, to be at hand “when required…” (And one never quite knows when that is.)

In Gemmayzeh

Currently, one of the trendiest districts in Beirut is Gemmayzeh and in particular Gouroud Street (named after a French General). Much neglected until it unexpectedly sprang to life three or four years ago, Gouroud still retains many of its original architectural features, including churches, schools and extraordinary early 20th century houses whose closed facades give no indication of the stunning high ceiling rooms and secret gardens hidden behind.

What has put Gouroud on the map is its extraordinary mixture of large and small restaurants carved out of former shops and ground floor living spaces, the whole length of the street. (For the Londoners among you, think Shoreditch).

Bordering Solidere, both Gemmayze and Monnot have managed to withstand the tough economic situation brought on by continued political deadlock, which has seen Solidere held hostage by opposition protestors into close to a year of tent city occupation. Once a bustling collection of restaurants, street cafes and bars, downtown is virtually deserted by night with many of its most popular restaurants like Caspar, Gambini and India having fled to new locations elsewhere in the city.

In Achrafieh

The Musee Sursock and its surrounding streets encapsulate the architecture and ambiance of old Christian Beirut. Little old ladies dressed in black, in thick stockings doing their daily shopping in neighbourhood stores that have been there for generations, and the chic young women and men that epitomize modern-day Beirut.

Cafés

From one-room eateries like Bread and Rouge, to trendy bars like Paddy Cochrane’s Cloud Nine and Gauche Caviar, Gouroud offers a wide range of cuisine and experiences. At the top of Gouroud, nestling behind a discreet bamboo façade boasting a modern water feature is Chez Paul, one of the most popular spots on the eastern side of the city. A restaurant-patisserie in the ubiquitous Paul format, this busy location complete with garden, bustles from morning till late night. Like most establishments in Gemmayze, it has an army of valet parking attendants who whisk the cars away to hidden locations nearby, for one thing this narrow, one way street does not have is a plethora of parking bays.

Try out traditional Lebanese food in the historic Glass Café whose décor and furnishings have remained the same for decades and where old and young gather to play backgammon, smoke a nargueileh and eat traditional Lebanese mezze.

If you are weary of wandering, and chock full of cafés, Beirut also has great cinemas, with a good selection of the latest releases. For a quick snack before a movie, try Café Blanc in the ABC Complex, where you can also buy beautiful sets of contemporary tea glasses and Arabic coffee cups. Oh and it has a shopping mall, too, if you’re that much of an addict.

Hitting the Beach

Check out the beaches in the South around Jiyeh, like the poetically named Bamboo Bay, Pangea, Jonas, La Voile Bleue, Oceana, Janna Sur Mer, Bellevue,
Orchid, Atlas... Spoiled for choice.

On the way to Jounieh, take a stopoff at one or both of the trendy beaches called Edde Sands, or Pierre & Friends. (And dress accordingly – think St Tropez not Brighton Beach!) www.eddesands.com

Tourist Stuff (Not)

ChI’s can get all the tourist info they need from “real” guide books. However – ChI has two great recommendations for must-see’s – which are not usually on the map which are worth a mention - the restored Audi soap factory in Sidon (excellent) and the Silk Museum in Bsous (open May to September) which is superb.

Meeting ‘n Greeting

If you need a formal, but relaxed meeting venue, try the superbly comfortable lounge on the first floor of Le Vendome Intercontinental in Ain Mreisseh. Or to see and be seen, eat and drink at Sydney’s on the top floor, with its views of the Mediterranean, the Corniche and the mountains.

One of Beirut’s older and more elegant hotels, and five minutes walk from Palm Beach, the Vendome’s roof bar and terrace provide contrasting locations from which to enjoy the roof top vista over the sea. In the cosy bar, complete with red velvet sofas and armchairs, English tea complete with scones (!) is served every afternoon. Meanwhile in the adjacent soothing yellow and white covered terrace, coffee and sandwiches give way seamlessly to happy hour drinks and then dinner. The Vendome has consistently maintained a reputation for quality food and service. Their attention to detail is superb – down to little exquisitely woven linen foot mats placed by the side of the bed for guests to step out onto.

But notwithstanding how great the Vendome remains, it pales into insignificance in terms of the icon factor, beside its nearby neighbour, the pink and white confection known as the Phoenicia, Beirut’s pre-eminent hotel and wedding location of choice among the rich and famous of this extravagant city. A night spent at the Phoenicia’s Eau de Vie restaurant is an occasion for people watching as the great and the (not-so) good strut their stuff, arriving at tables of up to 40 or 50 guests. Not surprisingly, table reservations are indeed necessary!

The Bristol Hotel also deserves a special mention. This gracious older hotel in West Beirut is located at the beginning of Rue Madame Curie, and is characterized by old style elegance, a rooftop swimming pool, and is popular with ChI’s for lunch, cakes and top quality chocolates!

Late Night Stuff

During the civil war, and even the July 2006 bombings, Beirut partied on, leaving the clubs and bars only when curfew broke in the morning – part of its indomitable spirit and the Lebanese dedication to serious down time. Serious partying doesn't get going till midnight, and most clubs are open until 4am at weekends. New places open, old ones close, others change name at the drop of a hat and hip venues can suddenly become unfashionable. Dress up: clubbers wear their best outfits and gold – and that's just the men. Beirutis have a "party hard" attitude and hit the clubs even during the invasion.
 

Beirut Night Time
Photo by John Smith

Whether you choose stylish Gemmayzeh, or the hip Rue Monnot (in the Monnot district not far from Gemmayzeh, Beirut clubs rock! Monnot which was the pre-eminent party street before Gemmayze came along (and still houses the nightspot Metis). Monnot can still provide stiff competition to the “new kid on the block” Gouroud, so sample away!

Take in the vibe at Cloud Nine and Gauche Caviar in Gouroud, owned by the Lebanese-Irish Paddy Cochrane, whose family still lives in the Palais Sursock in Ashrafieh. www.gauchecaviar.com

Check out Whites, the excellent bar and club nestled on the rooftop of Nahar building (named after An-Nahar, Lebanon’s most respected Arabic-language newspaper), where salamanzar’s of bubbly are commonly seen on tables (Moet’s special 9.5 litre champagne bottles, created especially for the Lebanese market!

A late, great 2007 phenomenon was the Skybar, Beirut’s trendiest summer roof bar, occupying an enormous sea facing terrace on top of Le Biel the city’s pre-eminent exhibition space and wedding venue. Said to have a capacity for 2,500-3,000 people, getting a reservation for Skybar is like gold dust - two months on the waiting list for a table is no exaggeration. (And some of ChI’s friends were there every night!) With an extraordinary view of the sea and the added comfort of being regarded as one of the most secure locations in the city, Skybar has provided fun and relief for Beirut’s politically depressed party goers – again, a very Lebanese phenomenon to party on when times are tough. Previously located on the roof of West Beirut’s Palm Beach hotel, Skybar was put together with speed and efficiency by a group of entrepreneurs who spotted a golden opportunity to exploit this previously unused space (spotting and seizing a commercial opportunity is a very Lebanese pastime!). Hopefully, they will return again next year.

Replacing Skybar in its location at the Palm Beach Hotel is Bubbles, another delightful rooftop location from which to watch the glorious “Rouge du Liban” sunset, while sipping cocktails and taking in the panoramic sweep of the Corniche to the left and spectacular mountain views to the right.

And if you peep over the railings below, you could be tempted to abandon this roof top view to take up a seat at the water’s edge at La Plage, a stunning waterside pool and bar where cocktails are served all day long (truly!), as the sea laps gently against the rocks on which this relaxing ‘city beach’ is built.

Dance (and eat) at Pulse – which used to be called the L Bar. Skin tight black trousers with transparent lace strips from waist to ankle would not be considered over-dressed. Tel 03 45 46 45

Interesting Links

www.Libanjazz.com
www.Timeoutbeirut.com
www.Tiesto.com  (A DJ who hosted a party for 10,000 people on the beach!)
www.Beirtunightlife.com
www.Yalibnan.com
www.Beirutspring.com
 

Author: Emma Hooper