Kythira

Technically an Ionian island, but with Cycladic-style architecture, and at the point where the Ionian and Aegean seas meet, just across from Monemvasia and the Pelopponese. Popular with roots-seeking returnee Aussie Greeks, and discerning Athenians. Other external tourism is mainly Italian, so a common sight is a car being driven like a bat out of hell, which comes to a shrieking stop and goes into a confused huddle over maps underneath a signpost pointing in an indeterminate direction. Roads are deserted and despite (or because) of this, people drive pretty fast, so play it safe.

In Kapsali, try to track down Captain Spiros, who has a little boat and takes you to see the beautiful caves near there. Book ahead to ensure you get a place. Tel 697 402 2079

There is an old fortress in the Chora that is lovely – preferably visited in the morning, otherwise it can get too hot - and quite a few beautiful monasteries too, generally, on the island. But your guidebooks will tell you that!

There is a cinema in the main Chora, which ChI has not been to, but has heard it is nice.

Everything in Kythira is really dispersed - there are deserted villages and really small ones with very few people – it involves a lot of driving over good but fairly deserted roads. There are bits where you might not come across any other cars for a while, so always carry water, and keep some emergency telephone numbers to hand, just in case.

Helpful car or scooter rental from Active tel +30 6974 667 083

The waterfall at Fonissa (just at the end of Milopotamos) is really worth a visit – but it can dry up in high summer. Its tiny but magical...and right next to the start of the path there is a really cute little shop owned by an Argentinian. He makes interesting jewels and his wife makes really nice jersey tops, hairbands etc. They also have fantastic fans in every colour. After walking and maybe even swimming under the waterfall, restore yourself at Platanos (again!).

Author: Emma Hooper